Day 1
Ancient ruins and artsy Monti
Today is going to be a packed day, so fuel up the way the Romans do, with a cappuccino and cornetto standing up at the bar. Or better yet, try a maritozzo, a cream-filled bun that’s quintessentially Roman. Pasticceria Regoli, a family-run spot established in 1916, is famous for them. Be sure to get there early because they always sell out.
From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to one of the most iconic Roman sites: the Colosseum. Plan to spend about an hour to an hour and a half exploring the various levels and viewing the archaeological finds displayed on the upper level.
The same ticket you used for the Colosseum gets you entry to the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill within 24 hours. When you finish at the Colosseum, go directly to the Forum’s entrance on Via dei Fori Imperiali. This was once the beating heart of the Roman Empire, with extravagant temples, palaces, and shops
Finish up on the Palatine Hill, which became like the Beverly Hills of the Roman Empire. The most important emperors, including Caesar Augustus and his wife Livia, built their gilded homes there. It takes some imagination to envision how glorious it once was.
For lunch, head to nearby Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, a family-run restaurant that serves Roman classics and some twists on them, like a gricia pasta with the addition of seasonal fruit or cacio e pepe with black truffle.
In the afternoon, spend some time wandering the charming cobblestone streets of Monti. Named for the hills it’s built on, the neighborhood is full of independent boutiques, casual bars, restaurants, and gelaterias. Stop by Sacripante or Kokoro for cute clothes made locally, Art Privé Goielli for beautiful jewelry, or Grezzo Raw Chocolate for raw, vegan chocolate. If you get a hankering for gelato, make a beeline for Fatamorgana. Cross Via Cavour and head up the stairs to see the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli, which houses Michelangelo’s statue of Moses.
You might just want to stick around Monti in the evening. On a quiet piazza in a less-trafficked part of the neighborhood, you’ll find Drink Kong, one of the most cutting-edge cocktail bars in the city. Owner Patrick Pistolesi, an Italian-Irish bartender, was inspired by Tokyo and ‘70s futurism. For something more traditional, head over to Ai Tre Scalini, a popular wine bar set on a particularly photogenic street with enormous tendrils of ivy hanging down. You could stay there, nibbling on cheese and salumi, or head over to Rocco Ristorante, a casual-cool trattoria that serves homestyle dishes. It’s a popular spot, so book ahead of time!
Day 2
Treasures of the Vatican and the Centro Storico
Get ready for another busy day ahead. The Vatican Museums open at 9am, but if you want to beat the crowds, you can book the Prime Experience tour led by a guide an hour before the museum opens to the public. One of the largest and most popular museums in the world, the Vatican Museums actually comprise 24 museums, plus various galleries and chapels, including the Sistine Chapel. Afterward, if you still have the time and energy, you can enter St. Peter’s Basilica to admire Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s bronze Baldacchino.
After you’ve had your fill of art, it’s time to fill up on another Italian masterpiece: pizza. A few blocks from the Vatican Museums, you’ll find one of the best pizzerias in Rome. Bonci Pizzarium is a tiny counter that only does pizza al taglio (aka pizza by the slice). The brainchild of Gabriele Bonci, who was featured on an episode of Chef Table: Pizza, this spot is as good as everyone says it is. The crust strikes the perfect balance between chewy and crunchy, and there’s an exhaustive range of toppings. Our advice? Ask for small slices so you can try a few.
After lunch, return to the other side of the river to explore the Centro Storico, the historic center where the most beautiful piazzas, fountains, and monuments are concentrated. Cross the Ponte Sant’Angelo, dotted with angels designed by baroque master Bernini, which also offers a wonderful view of St. Peter’s Basilica, and you’ll find yourself just a few blocks away from Piazza Navona, one of the city’s liveliest squares with an impressive baroque fountain by Bernini in the middle.
From there, it’s a five-minute walk to the Pantheon, the best-preserved ancient Roman temple. That’s because it was converted into a church. It has the largest freestanding dome built before the modern era and has been called architecturally perfect because of the perfectly equal ratio of its length to its height. Go inside to admire the oculus and see the tombs of important figures, including Raphael.
Continue walking east through the cobblestone lanes until you come to the famous Trevi Fountain. Legend says that if you throw one coin in the fountain, you’ll return to Rome. Throw two coins, and you’ll fall in love with an Italian. Throw three coins, and you’ll marry your Italian love.
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