|
Together with:
|
|
|
|
|
|
As we wove through the mountains toward Semonkong in central Lesotho—a small, landlocked country encircled by South Africa—each new vista through the car window was more incredible than the last. Mountains largely devoid of trees sloped into valleys, and thatched roof huts and farm animals dotted the landscape.
My friend Emily, a Peace Corps volunteer in Lesotho, was my companion; she spoke enough Sesotho (the official language of the regional Basotho people) to communicate our destination with the taxi driver as we left the capital, Maseru.
Upon reaching the misty hilltop village, it was obvious why its name translated to “Place of Smoke.” Founded in the early 1880s by Sotho refugees displaced by the Cape Colony forces during the Basuto Gun War, Semonkong now bustles with Basotho people on horseback, wearing traditional blankets, as they transport food and supplies to nearby villages. Far removed from the frenzied urban environment of New York City, my hometown, I relished the expansiveness of the mountains, the sense of peace, and the slowness.
|
|
|
Give a gift of Calm during Mental Health Awareness Month
Your premium membership includes 50,000+ minutes of premium content with Sleep Stories, Meditations, Nature sounds, Sleep soundscapes, Relaxing music, as well as New content daily. Cancel anytime.
|
|
Semonkong is perhaps best known for its magnificent Maletsunyane Falls—and the rare opportunity to abseil down it. Abseiling, also known as rappelling, involves descending a rock face while tied to a rope that’s attached to the top of the rock.
The Maletsunyane Abseil received a Guinness World Records certificate in 2005 for its status as the longest commercially operated single-drop abseil in the world. The experience is exclusively operated by Semonkong Lodge, which also provides accommodation and meals. (Emily and I stayed in a six-bed bunkhouse in order to meet other like-minded travelers, though private rooms were also available.)
On the day of the abseil, my guides—a group of local Basotho men—drove us 30 minutes from the lodge to Maletsunyane Falls, where a sure-footed mule was hitched and waiting to ferry equipment down a rocky hill to the waterfall’s edge.
After a fifteen-minute walk, the tremendous sound of the falls—crashing from a height of 670 feet into the gorge below—caused my heart rate to spike. It appeared as if the earth had just cracked open, intending to swallow us. Despite feeling a bit dizzy from the view, I was determined to experience this once-in-a-lifetime thrill.
|
|
As the guides prepared for my descent, chatting jovially to one another as they tested the equipment and helped me into my harness, I felt cared for and protected. The previous day, they had taught me the techniques and maneuvers required, watching closely as I practiced on shorter cliffs about 82 feet (25 meters) tall near the lodge. Although I’d bungee-jumped before, I would soon learn that nothing compares to abseiling down a waterfall.
Harnessed with my helmet on, I began the abseil by stepping backwards off the ledge into thin air, a terrifying prospect made less terrifying by the rope’s sturdy resistance. I reminded myself that many people had successfully and safely abseiled this waterfall before me—I was poised to join their ranks.
One of the guides leaned over the edge to give me a thumbs up and snap a picture as I used my feet to push off the cliff face repeatedly, lowering myself into the gorge. As my gloved hands worked their way down the length of the rope and the breeze blew the waterfall’s spray into my face, I felt euphoric, invincible. I soon discovered a meditative rhythm, and a mere twenty minutes later, I triumphantly reached solid ground.
|
|
|
Trusted Housesitters connects homeowners and house and pet sitters so you can work remotely without paying for accommodations.
Right now, Going members can get 20% off all new subscriptions of any membership tier with the code #######.
|
|
Several guides were waiting in the gorge to congratulate me before our steep, 45-minute trek back to the top. As I ascended on foot, I snuck awestruck glances at the magnificent waterfall behind me, in disbelief about what I’d just done. And after returning to the lodge, exhausted yet content, I received a certificate as a souvenir. To this day it remains tacked to my fridge, a joyful memory.
Later that night, Emily and I walked a few minutes from our bunkhouse to the lodge’s cozy Duck and Donkey Tavern, which was an especially excellent way to relax and recharge after my outdoor adventure. The tavern offered the fluffiest and most delicious bread, more memorable than any bread I’d tasted in Italy or France.
The following day, while on horseback (another lodge-organized activity), Emily and I asked our guide if he knew who baked it—and to our utter delight, he led us straight to the baker’s home, where we bought a fresh loaf right there on the woman’s threshold. I carefully secured it inside my saddle bag. Hours later, we tore off hunks of it in our bunkhouse as an afternoon snack, reveling in our discovery. I still dream about this bread!
The grounded simplicity of this particular pleasure, complemented by the emotionally exhilarating abseil, made my trip to Semonkong feel nourishing in every possible way, allowing me to discover different sides to the village. Wherever I go next, I aim to seek out the equivalent of that freshly made loaf of bread and roaring waterfall.
|
|
How to do it
Want to abseil down Maletsunyane Falls? The best time to go, how much it costs, handy tips, and more: Find it all in our online guide.
|
|
|
|
Getting there
Most people fly to O.R. Tambo International Airport (JNB) in Johannesburg. From there, you can either rent a car to drive over the South Africa/Lesotho border or hop on an hour-long connecting flight from Johannesburg to Maseru. From Maseru, you can rent a car, hire a driver, or catch the local Semonkong minibus taxi from Maseru Central Bus Station. It’s approximately a three-hour drive from Maseru to Semonkong (luckily, the views make the drive worth it).
|
|
$934 Average Going deal
|
|
$1,400 Normal ticket price
|
|
|
|
|
Interested in a trip to Lesotho?
Premium and Elite members get unlimited alerts for specific trip destinations and dates in the Going app.
|
|
|
|
Flight alerts are now unlocked
Limited members can now track price drops for specific trips. Even better, set an alert by June 16th for a chance to win $1,000 in free flights!
|
|
|
|
With local expert:
Caitlin Barasch
|
Caitlin Barasch is a Brooklyn-based writer. Her debut novel, A NOVEL OBSESSION, was a Good Morning America “Buzz Pick” and one of Buzzfeed’s “Best Books of 2022.” She earned her MFA from NYU and her BA from Colorado College, where she fell madly in love with the mountains. You’ll find her riding horses, browsing local bookshops, eating bread, or in pursuit of another adrenaline rush.
|
|
|
Share with a fellow travel lover by forwarding to a friend.
|
|
|
Get the app today 
|
|
|
