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Where temples and high-rises share the skyline, shopping malls are architectural curiosities, and street food is Michelin-starred…
With a population of approximately 11 million, Bangkok bursts at its canalways to offer so much in and beyond its pinnacled temples, chaotic streets, and fabled hospitality. This is a city that is, at least in name, older than the country: From Ayutthaya, Thonburi, and Rattanakosin came Bangkok (or Krung Thep, to Thais) in 1782, existing in different forms over successive centuries. And from Siam came Thailand in 1939, when it was renamed by prime minister Phibun in a flight of nationalism and in pursuit of modernization.
Retaining its independence throughout historical waves of colonization, Thailand has since been caught between democracy and a series of military juntas over the past two decades. And its capital, Bangkok, remains a gleaming center of wealth, culture, and modernization in a country primarily made up of small towns and villages.
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Mega-wats in a deeply spiritual city
Thailand’s syncretic mix of Theravada Buddhist, Hindu, and folk beliefs is omnipresent in everyday city life in Bangkok, from bottles of nam dang (red Fanta) at well-kept altars in each corner shop to elaborately constructed san phra phum (spirit houses) on street sides.
The city’s jewels are its gilded temples: Wat Arun, Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha), Wat Saket (Golden Mount), and Wat Suthat.
For an experience that is part of many locals’ routines, check out the centrally located triad of shrines (all within the Ratchaprasong intersection and accessible via a well-trodden walkway that elevates pedestrians above the city’s unceasing traffic).
Erawan, the most prominent of the three, houses Phra Phrom (the Thai representation of the Hindu god of creation, Brahma) and often hosts Thai dance performances for those who have come to worship. For luck in business and careers, make a beeline for the nearby Ganesha. For those in pursuit of love, approach Sadasiva bearing roses.
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Convenience stores and Michelin-starred street food
Thai cuisine needs little introduction, in large part thanks to the “soft power” of pad thai worldwide. Although the concept of Bangkokian street food has since shifted in the direction of food courts in the city’s numerous shopping malls (similar to Singapore’s hawker centers), variety and convenience still reign despite a government crackdown on unregulated commerce in the past decade.
The night food market at Talat Phlu still survives, as does the Michelin-starred stall of Jay Fai (whose crab omelette and pad kee mao garnered a feature in Netflix’s Street Food documentary series), as do the longstanding mom-and-pop shops that line the city’s streets. You’ll likely see at least a few locals spooning sugar (one of the staple condiments at any stall and a testament to the city’s sweet tooth) into their kuaitiao ruea (boat noodles), a dish historically served from boats on Bangkok’s canals.
Fine dining can be found in equal measure, but an unsung range of snacks can also be found at your closest convenience store (at best a 7-Eleven, but sometimes a Tops Daily or Lawson). Keep an eye out for Lay’s chips; sweet basil, shrimp tom yum hot pot, and mieng kam krob ros are some of the flavors exclusive to the Thai market.
Then, rock up to the counter to bring life to your Mama noodle cup (they’ll almost always have a hot water dispenser) and for cha thai (Ceylon black tea with condensed milk) made on the spot.
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An unexpected workout, steeped in history
Thai massage, or nuad thai, is a body-contorting massage that’s more energetic than most other techniques and combines Chinese acupressure, Ayurvedic tradition, and Indian yoga to understand impact on the body and relieve ailments such as back pain, headaches, and anxiety.
Although foreign onlookers have attempted to geographically categorize nuad thai into "northern" and "southern" styles, the key difference lies in the recipient rather than the practitioner: For the royal family, nuad rajchasumnak (royal Thai massage) was developed to emphasize politeness and a reserved approach; for the general public, nuad chaleoysak (folk Thai massage) sees full use of the hands, elbows, knees, and feet.
From a mention in the Theravada Buddhist scriptures to earning a place on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2019, the longevity of nuad thai was cemented in 1832 when, under royal decree, its teachings were etched into Wat Po, the largest monastery in Bangkok at the time.
If you’re looking for a massage in Bangkok, know that the quality of massage depends more on the individual therapist than the shop itself, but a good rule of thumb is to go where it’s busy. Otherwise, Health Land and Let’s Relax are both reliable and inexpensive chains (though you should book in advance), as well as boutique spas and those attached to hotels.
For those looking to learn nuad thai for themselves, there can be no better than its Wat Po birthplace. Now a world-renowned massage school, this is where the massage therapists at the world’s best hotels are trained. Certified by Thailand’s Ministry of Education, course lengths range from introductory (typically around five days) to in-depth (hitting the 60-hour mark or more), so gauge your interest and choose accordingly.
Read more
- Thai handicrafts worth taking home
- The role of the shopping mall in local culture
- Talat nat (flea markets) and the art of haggling
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BKK flight price history
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$828 Average Going deal
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$1,300 Normal ticket price
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Going Gear has landed
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With local expert:
Nadya Oppenheim
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Nadya Oppenheim is a freelance writer and journalist who grew up between Oxfordshire, Bangkok, Valencia, and New York City. Her work has been published by the Financial Times and Bloomberg Philanthropies.
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