Urea, a tiny molecule with major moisture-retaining and exfoliating benefits, has been around for 251 years and yet, this ingredient is still so underrated and misunderstood. Those familiar with its powers however... would sorely miss it if by some cruel twist of fate (or supply chain disruption), it were to ever disappear. *Knocks on wood.* Let's get more acquainted and dive into you…ree-uh.
This natural compound is most commonly known for its unglamorous origin story: It was discovered in pee in 1773. In the body, the liver converts toxic ammonia into urea, which is then filtered out by the kidneys as urine. Because urea is highly water soluble and absorbent—and because we create a lot of it every day—it concentrates in your pee so you can get rid of large quantities of it without having to use the bathroom constantly.
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No, the urea used in skincare products is not derived from urine, and hasn’t been for two centuries. |
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No, the urea used in skincare products is not derived from urine, and hasn't been for two centuries. |
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Synthetic urea was first created by chemist Friedrich Wöhler in 1828, a discovery that helped define the field of organic chemistry as we know it. It was the very first organic compound (!!!) to be synthesized from an inorganic source, meaning no living organisms were required to make it. Wöhler’s ureic legacy was so renowned that his death was commemorated with a German postal stamp featuring the molecular structure of urea—a major upgrade in its original relationship with “bathroom stationary goods.”
Today, urea can be created in a lab with the same compounds it’s made of inside the body. Urea has centuries of studies deeming it completely safe for skin, and is validated by the US FDA’s research and evaluation of its use in cosmetics. In fact, some of its first uses were for wound care because of its antimicrobial properties. In the realm of skincare, it’s known for being an effective humectant, an ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. Dermatologists, estheticians, chemists, skincare savants—we all love the stuff. It's the rest of the world we're trying to get onboard.
When urea is filtered through the kidneys, it travels through our bloodstream and even into skin cells. Like hyaluronic acid, urea is a fundamental part of skin’s NMF (natural moisturizing factor); it helps regulate the skin’s moisture levels. When included in a skincare product, urea boosts its hydrating efficacy. |
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Urea is hygroscopic, which means it has a powerful ability not just to moisturize the skin, but to penetrate the skin barrier and hold onto water, helping keep the skin hydrated over time. |
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Urea is hygroscopic, which means it has a powerful ability not just to moisturize the skin, but to penetrate the skin barrier and hold onto water, helping keep the skin hydrated over time. |
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Water-attracting materials like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe vera (which have had more successful PR campaigns than urea) function very similarly, attracting and retaining moisture. |
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| Urea pulls water from the environment and from deep within skin to the surface—thus, strengthening the skin’s moisture barrier, plumping visibly dehydrated skin, and loosening the bond holding together dead skin cells, causing them to gently shed. |
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| | Urea pulls water from the environment and from deep within skin to the surface—thus, strengthening the skin’s moisture barrier, plumping visibly dehydrated skin, and loosening the bond holding together dead skin cells, causing them to gently shed. |
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Urea is unique in that, at certain concentrations it is a keratolytic agent, exfoliating and softening the skin. Other keratolytic ingredients you might be familiar with are salicylic acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid. This category of molecules loosen dead skin cells on the outermost layer of your epidermis (the stratum corneum), allowing for them to be easily sloughed off, leaving a smoother surface behind. |
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Since urea is a familiar compound in the body, it’s less likely to irritate the skin in the process, making it a reliable exfoliant choice for dry and sensitive skin. |
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Since urea is a familiar compound in the body, it’s less likely to irritate the skin in the process, making it a reliable exfoliant choice for dry and sensitive skin. |
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What else? Urea is a “lipid barrier disruptor.” It penetrates the skin barrier and disrupts the ecosystem there, so to speak, allowing other beneficial chemical components to also penetrate. Basically, urea can help other ingredients to ‘activate,’ such as antifungal drugs in foot creams. |
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| Good for: dry skin |
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Good for: keratosis pilaris |
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That said, the amount of urea in a skincare product changes its function. Some lotions and creams contain a small percentage of urea to enhance their moisturizing and softening abilities, while higher percentages increase the exfoliant, or keratolytic, effects.
Within our current product line, urea is present at 10% in Carea Cream and 5% in Smoothing Solution. This concentration of urea focuses on deep moisturization and gentle exfoliation. |
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SLATHER ON UREA
(you - ree - uh) |
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Apply a thin layer of Smoothing Solution (containing 5% urea) once daily, to concern areas with rough texture, KP, strawberry skin, and ingrown hair. |
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Spread Carea Cream (containing 10% urea) all over the body daily. Use on clean, dry skin post-shower, or layer on top of Smoothing Solution. |
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