Newport Beach, California | Dolphins in Newport Beach, California, USA | Welcome back to Travel Diaries, where one of our editors shares all the whats and hows of their latest trip. Save these in your back pocket (or a special travel inbox folder) to return to when the travel itch creeps in.
In the words of Ryan Gosling’s Ken, my job is just beach. At least, it was temporarily a few weeks ago when I spent a few relaxing days in Newport Beach, California. Now, my job is to share the ultimate long weekend itinerary with you all – isn’t that fun? And who doesn’t love a beach? Lonely Planet certainly does.
Just south of Los Angeles, you may be familiar with Orange County from watching the teen drama The OC or ogling at the luxurious real estate on Selling the OC. Within Orange County are three major beach areas: Huntington Beach, Laguna Beach and Newport Beach, my getaway of choice.
The glitz and glam of Newport Beach do not disappoint, but somehow, this place manages to be simultaneously posh and laid-back. You could spend the morning luxury shopping, sunning yourself by the pool or going for a spa treatment, and in the afternoon, you could be cycling around Balboa Island or exploring a coastal state park. And while the price tag on Newport reads “luxury,” there are truly so many ways to do a trip here without spending all your cash. | | | | I landed in Santa Ana Thursday afternoon with dark circles under my eyes, just in time to check into my hotel and have a quick nap before dinner. I struggle to fall asleep on planes, so the extra time was very valuable. | How to get from the airport | Unfortunately, this is not a public transportation-friendly area. What should be a reasonable drive from Los Angeles is more often hours of bumper-to-bumper traffic. So if you book a flight into LAX, plan for a longer-than-expected journey. Or you could fly into SNA like I did and arrive at your hotel within 20 minutes. Tough decision, I know. | Again, a rideshare or car rental is your best bet. If getting plenty of beach time is your main priority, but you aren’t staying on the beach, many hotels offer shuttle service back and forth. And then there are the Duffy boats for tooling around the harbor (more on that later). | I stayed at the newly opened Pendry Newport Beach. The rooms are spacious; they have a fabulous pool deck for tanning, an amazing restaurant and bar and a private members’ club for locals. Plus, it’s not a far drive from the harbor and beach. Or, if you want to test your luck, try to snag one of the charming beachfront cottages at Crystal Cove State Park. If your wallet’s not a concern, book a villa at the Resort at Pelican Hill for the ultimate pampering vacation. | An extra layer. Early May was a bit chillier than expected (all you need is a light jacket!), but I still managed to leave with a sneaky sunburn. Also, bring your finest beachy fits. And then the usual suspects – a swimsuit, SPF, a hat and sunglasses. | | | "Newport has a luxurious vibe, and you’ll notice people in elegant linens, tasteful florals and breezy fabrics" | | | This itinerary looks packed, but it doesn’t feel like it because there was a balance of active and relaxing activities. I have to remind myself that there’s nothing wrong with taking a rest in my hotel room when I’ve had a little too much sun. | Aperitivo: After my catnap, I was in dire need of a G&T from Bar Pendry in the lobby to perk myself up. It has a beautiful circular bar, but a swanky chair in the corner was calling my name. Dinner: Just across the street from the hotel is the shopping mall icon Fashion Island. You’ll also find JOEY, a contemporary restaurant that is a place to see and be seen even on a weeknight. My dinner was ravioli bianco with shrimp, just the kind of food you need after a day of travel. | Morning: I was up at 6am (weird, but the jet lag was unavoidable). Since I was wide awake, I decided to get in some movement with a Peloton ride at the hotel gym. The California version of myself is so active! Breakfast was at Malibu Farm Lido. It's known for its breakfast burrito, and who am I to say no to that? Then I (window) shopped around the boutiques of Lido Marina Village before my first official activity of the day. How to spend the day: Any first-timer in Newport will probably go whale-watching, and I can’t recommend it enough. There’s really nothing like being so close to the biggest creatures on the planet. Just make sure your tour is on a Zodiac boat. They’re super fast, and it’s a much more intimate experience since you’re just a few feet above the water. If you’re lucky enough to glide alongside a pod of dolphins, just gaze over the side of the boat, and it feels like you’re a member of the pod. Lunch was at Pendry’s SET Steak & Sushi. My breakfast burrito still had me pretty full, so I opted for a light and crispy slice of bluefin tuna pizza and a crab avocado salad. Then I did something I never do. I got a massage at the hotel spa. My always-tense upper back and shoulders (thank you, desk job) were – for a few days at least – eternally grateful. Dinner: Dinner was at A Crystal Cove, a short Uber ride from the hotel. My pasta kick continued with a bowl of their “dirty pasta” – like a rigatoni bolognese but with ground duck. And then, because I am a jet lag drama queen, I went straight to bed. | Morning: Another early morning, another spontaneous Peloton workout. Then I was off to breakfast at Beachcomber Café, right on the beach in Crystal Cove State Park. I went sweeter this morning, devouring fresh beignets – topped with powdered sugar, whipped cream and a drizzle of maple syrup – and a stack of coconut-macadamia pancakes. How to spend the day: After breakfast, I took a guided tour of Crystal Cove’s beach cottage zone. The Crystal Cove Conservancy has restored 24 (and counting) beach cottages from the 1930s–50s for guests to reserve and stay in, including dorm-style rooms and entire cottages. They’re simply adorable and relatively inexpensive. The catch? Reservations are pretty competitive, opening up exactly six months in advance and getting snapped up immediately, so you have to be strategic. Tip: Have multiple members in your party make an account and attempt a reservation. Later that afternoon, I took a Duffy boat ride. You’ll see these small electric boats everywhere here. The captain brought drinks and snacks, and we cruised around the harbor, admiring beautiful waterside mansions. The best boat names on the harbor on this particular evening were Rampage and 401k. Dinner: Tonight was all about a leisurely dinner at the harborside Bluewater Grill. This southern girl went for their seasonal specialty gumbo. After dark: Have you ever watched Mamma Mia at the beach? Because the vibes are unmatched. I happily sunk into bed and started the movie as my eyes fought to stay open. | Morning: One last Peloton workout because I never got used to the new time zone, and it wasn’t worth trying on my last day. Then it was time for breakfast at Wilma’s Patio on Balboa Island. It’s a family-run, no-frills kind of place with ginormous menus. My egg white scramble came with a side of cornbread, butter and honey. They so get me. Finally, when on Balboa Island, get a frozen banana – even if it’s 10am and you’re still full from brunch. Arrested Development fans, you’re probably familiar with the Bluth family’s frozen banana stand on Balboa Island. The Bluth family is fictional, but the frozen bananas are the real deal at two places that are just steps apart: Sugar ‘n Spice and Dad’s. They both claim to be the original, but I declare that no one can mess up a frozen banana dipped in chocolate. My frozen banana with chocolate sprinkles came from Dad’s; it was the only one open that early. And then I returned to the hotel to pack up and head to SNA! This is a destination I could totally see myself returning to with my family (take the hint, Mom and Dad). There’s so much to do here away from the sand, but next time I’ll have to spend more time on the actual beach. – Ann Douglas Lott | | | Ann Douglas traveled to Newport Beach on the invitation of Visit Newport Beach. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage. Photo credits: Ann Douglas Lott, Pendry Newport Beach | Share with a fellow travel lover by forwarding to a friend. | Did someone share this email with you? 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