Marcel shot to bad-boy status with the French regulators after he planted his grand crus to field blends (an illegal move and a technique normally reserved to lowly wines). Then, he self-appointed seven of his top vineyards “premier crus” (illegally of course). When you taste them, it makes crystalline sense, but Jean-Michel fast became a Domaine hero and villain. Spoiler alert. The good guy won, and he recently managed to convince the top dogs to change regulations allowing a blend to have Grand Cru status for the first time. Ouah!
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