Chamidae toasts BVI on her island-hopping adventure | Welcome back to Travel Diaries, where one of our editors shares all the whats and hows of their latest trip. Save these in your back pocket (or a special travel inbox folder) to return to when the travel itch creeps in. This week, Chamidae Ford, a writer for Lonely Planet, is sharing the details of her island-hopping adventure through the British Virgin Islands. Read more about her trip here. I recently went on a truly idyllic trip to the British Virgin Islands. Since I grew up in Seattle on the West Coast, the Caribbean wasn’t our usual getaway as the flights were quite long. But now, as a certified East Coast girl, I can confidently say I had no idea what I was missing. And by that, I mean untamed nature, wax apples and painkiller cocktails. The five days I spent sailing around the BVI eating tropical fruit and jumping off catamarans into crystal clear waters couldn’t have been a better introduction to the region. | | | | | The best time to visit the BVI is December through April. If you choose to visit in the summer (hurricane season), travel insurance is highly recommended. | | | | | How to get from the airport | | | | | Renting a car is the most flexible option, but hiring a car or taking a taxi is great if you plan to island hop. | | | | | A swimsuit is a must, along with light, breathable layers and a button-up for when the sun gets a bit too strong. | | | The trip began on the secluded and romantic island of Guana, where I found a level of peace and connection with myself that can be hard to achieve in the chaos of New York. It was followed by hiking to a natural spring and trying local rum in Tortola, where I sampled a cocktail called the Panty Dropper (I will not be confirming if it works; you will have to try it for yourself). We then sailed to Anegada for all the conch and lobster a girl could want, before a day of swimming at Cooper Island. If you can’t tell, I’m already game-planning my return. | Evening: After a long day of traveling, there was no better feeling than pulling up to Guana Island (by speedboat, mind you). It was late afternoon, the sun was warm, and in front of us lay a lush mountainous island where the only things we could hear were the lapping waves and the wildlife. Guana Island is a private island, home to only one hotel by the same name. And it's fancy. While the seclusion, beauty and hospitality will make you never want to leave, it also comes with a hefty price tag. Guana is an all-inclusive experience, so all the activities, drinks and food are included with your stay, which makes it an extremely relaxing getaway. It's completely worth adding to your itinerary if you're looking for a luxury stay. That first night, I had two hours between arrival and dinner, and I knew I needed to get in the ocean. Guana has seven beaches and handy golf carts to get you there and back. Be sure to look for the flamingos who like to hang out in the salt pond. Samson, who makes the best mojitos I’ve ever had, drove me down to North Beach, where I went straight into the ocean. As the sky was beginning to turn pink, I swam in the clear, warm water and, for the first time in my life, had a beach completely to myself. It was one of my favorite moments from the whole trip. There's even a handy bar by the beach, so you can order a Corona to sip in between dips. That evening, I enjoyed a martini (made with BVI gin) while watching the sun sink below the horizon before a candle-lit dinner on the terrace. One thing about Guana is that the views are unbelievable, and they know it. The number of cozy lookouts, secluded verandas and scenic dining options makes it hard to focus on anything but the sea shimmering with reflecting stars. Getting around: Arriving on the island requires a boat, which you take from Tortola. The launch is next door to the Beef Island Airport, making for a super easy transfer. Once you’re on the island, hiking and golf carts are the primary modes of transportation. If you want to visit some of the beaches on the other side of the Island, you will need to hike there. What we ate: On Guana Island, all the delicious food is made at the hotel. Much of the fruit and vegetables are sourced from the on-site orchard (ask for a tour and sample the passion fruit. I could eat it for days). For our first dinner, we had seemingly endless glasses of wine, accompanied by eggplant with a dill sauce drizzled on top, pasta with prawns, and soursop ice cream. Aafter waking up to the sounds of birds chirping and feeling like a Disney princess in the best way possible, I had a classic breakfast of bacon, eggs and potatoes. | Skipping to Day 4: Anegada Island | How we spent the day: Today began with boarding a Moorings Catamaran and embarking on our journey to Anegada Island. Anegada is unique in that it does not look like any of the other islands. Rather than being formed from volcanic origin, it’s a limestone island, making it long and flat rather than mountainous. With roughly 450 residents, Anegada has a slower, quieter pace than Jost or Tortola. We relaxed on board the catamaran for the 3-ish-hour journey before arriving at the island, where we moored offshore before taking the dinghy in. We met up with our tour guide and went to explore some of Anegadas' coolest sights. First, we saw tons of flamingos enjoying a salt pond before heading farther out to sea, where our guide went hunting for one of the island's delicacies: conch! When he returned with two fresh conch, he taught us not only how to clean them but also how to make ceviche right there. Afterward, we headed to Conch Island. Fishers have left their empty shells in a pile over the course of 200 years, creating a stunning pink and white offshore island. It feels more like an art installation than a mound of shells glimmering in the sun. We hopped off the boat and went snorkeling around Conch Island, as the fish have taken to it like a reef, and there are so many species to keep your eye out for. We wrapped up the day enjoying wine and the sunset aboard our catamaran. Where we ate: In the morning, we enjoyed breakfast onboard the catamaran, but for lunch, we headed to Big Bamboo Beach Bar & Restaurant. This laid-back casual place serves up great food and a chill ambiance. You can tell it gets lively and upbeat during peak times of the year, but since we were there during the beginning of hurricane season, things were quiet. I enjoyed a Caesar salad mostly because I was in need of a vegetable and non-seafood, but the lobster, shrimp burgers and conch fritters were fan favorites among my group. That evening, we dined at the Lobster Trap, a beachside restaurant where you can watch the sunset and the catamarans bobbing in the water in the distance. Here, we split half lobsters, which you have the option to have blackened or grilled – we tried both, although I personally lean toward blackened. | | | | Photography credits: Chamidae Ford/Lonely Planet; Jonathan Becker | This email was sent to you by: | Lonely Planet Publications Ltd. | 1101 Red Ventures Drive, Fort Mill, SC 29707 | | | |
